Fiber content for sure! Anything like real wool, silk, or leather is an instant plus. I'm not normally super interested in the brand, but if something has an embroidered tag instead of a printed one that can often be a good sign that it's a vintage piece. I'm also always interested in the garment construction and how the seams are finished. Any extra tags can also give you useful information sometimes! Like for example I have a thrifted sport coat with a United Garment Workers of America union tag, and that means it has to have been made in 1994 at latest, and I also just love knowing that it was made by unionized workers
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